If you’re headed to the salon for a seasonal color refresh or are just looking to add natural-looking highlights to your hair, chances are you’re considering balayage. Because the popular hair highlighting technique is applied freehand, it is often referred to as “hair painting.” But there are actually some key differences between hair painting vs. balayage that might have you rethinking your approach.
We’ve tapped Suzie Bond, L’Oréal Professionnel artist and owner of Bond Beauty, to talk us through balayage hair and how it compares to the hair painting technique so that you can find the right option for your next salon appointment.
What Is Hair Painting?
According to Bond, hair painting is a broader term used to describe a number of color or highlighting techniques. It can refer to any open-air application of dimensional hair color that is not a traditional foil. The results can also look different on everyone.
This freehand hair coloring technique is often used to create more natural-looking highlights. Many stylists resort to this more organic approach when they want to use highlights to effortlessly enhance facial features or create highlights mid-strand rather than at the root.
Good hair day by @hairbykatlin.
What Is Balayage?
Put simply, balayage is a freehand-painting method for highlighting hair that was developed in France in the 1970s. The goal was to create a “natural” sun-kissed look. The term balayage literally means “to sweep” in French, and this is reflective of the process. Bleach is brushed—or swept—onto the hair, and it processes without the use of a cap or foils. The result is a soft, gradient finish that adds dimension to your tresses without a harsh line of demarcation. Balayage highlights are often light blonde, gold, honey, and auburn shades, although the specific color will depend on your personal preference (and your colorist’s recommendation).
French balayage is a type of balayage defined by its seamless, natural-looking results. This description matches many different balayage hair looks, but not all balayage is “French.” You can use a balayage technique, but if the final look is unblended or features an unnatural color, it wouldn’t qualify as French balayage.
Hair professionals spend years practicing balayage hair and developing their skills for this method of application, which is why we always recommend seeking out a pro if you want to give it a try. There are also colorists who specialize in French balayage, specifically.
Good hair day by @redkenpro.
What’s the Difference Between Balayage and Hair Painting?
The difference between hair painting vs. balayage is all in the execution. Balayage involves a freehand technique where the stylist paints the color onto your hair, typically focusing the application on the surface layers and gradually using a lighter hand toward the ends. This approach results in a soft, blended look that mimics where the sun would place highlights. The level of lightness can be customized based on your natural hair color. For example, if you have dark brown hair, you can get a caramel balayage, and if your natural hair is a dark blonde shade, the highlights can be a very light blonde.
Once the lightener is applied, your colorist may leave your hair alone to process, or they might separate your strands with pieces of cotton or a very lightweight plastic wrap. Some lighteners don't need anything to separate them as they encapsulate upon application, which helps prevent the product from transferring to pieces of hair that you don’t want to lighten.
Hair painting, on the other hand, is a broader term that can refer to various application methods that don’t require hair to be contained in foil. Some examples include painting lightener over existing color, applying color to select strands on top of a full-head color, adding lowlights by hand, or using a board to fully saturate sections of hair with color or lightener. “Hair painting has no rules, so anything can be involved,” Bond explains.
Which Technique Requires More Maintenance?
According to Bond, there is no real right or wrong when it comes to hair painting vs. balayage. “This is really up to your hair colorist. It's important to discuss the expectation of not only [the] end result, but also the maintenance required.” When it comes to general maintenance for hair painting vs. balayage, Bond explains, “French balayage has the softest regrowth on natural hair and the end result is dictated by the canvas on which it is applied.”
But, do they both require the same amount of maintenance? “Saying ‘it depends’ is an understatement,” Bond continues. “The farther away from the natural color and the larger the sections, the more often you will need to visit the salon. French balayage tends to have the lowest maintenance.”
Ultimately, the final decision between hair painting vs. balayage is between you and your stylist. Working with someone you trust and who knows your hair well is essential. “The most important aspect of any service,” Bond notes, “is to ask for the end result you want and allow your hair professional to choose what will best create that look for you.” If you are truly seeking French balayage, she recommends asking if your professional is certified in French balayage by L'Oréal Professionnel.
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Looking for a hair professional who is certified in French balayage? Use our salon locator to find a stylist near you.
Header photo credits: @suziebond.
