The Dutch braid, also sometimes called a reverse French braid, is a versatile plaited hairstyle that adds tons of dimension to any look. This type of braid doesn’t always get its due, likely because it looks intricate (and therefore, difficult to do). But that’s a misconception—if you know how to create a basic French braid, you can master a Dutch braid hairstyle, too. All it takes is a simple adjustment of your plaiting technique. Read on for a step-by-step tutorial on how to Dutch braid, plus plenty of hairstyle inspiration to bookmark for your next night-out look.
What Is a Dutch Braid?
A Dutch braid is a type of three-strand braid where the sections of hair are woven under each other instead of over. This technique creates a three-dimensional plait that sits on top of your hair, rather than flush against your scalp. Like a French braid, a Dutch braid typically begins at the roots. More hair is then added to each section as you move toward the ends of the hair.
Now, with that explainer out of the way, keep scrolling to learn how to Dutch braid in a few simple steps.
How To Do a Dutch Braid
Step 1: Prep your hair
While you technically can braid your hair without any prep, this likely won’t give you the polished results you’re after. For a neater hairstyle, start by determining the placement of your braid (or braids). Then, use a comb to help detangle your strands and get your hair into place. For example, if you want to rock a Dutch braid on either side of your head, comb through your hair and create a middle part, dividing your mane into two braiding sections.
If you aren’t braiding your entire head of hair, use the comb to section off just the hair you want to work with. You can then clip away the strands you don’t want to include in your braid, so they won’t get in your way.
For this Dutch braid tutorial, we’re creating a half-up hairstyle. So, we sectioned off the top layer of the hair.
Step 2: Give your hair some texture
Clean or very fine hair can be challenging to braid because it can easily slip through your fingers. To simplify things for yourself, we recommend working with second-day hair or faking it with the help of a texturizing spray or dry shampoo. We love the Redken Dry Texture Spray, which creates instant, undone texture and doesn’t leave behind any powdery residue.
Step 3: Grab your sections
To start your Dutch braid, you’ll need to pick up three sections of hair. Because the Dutch braiding technique involves incorporating more hair as you go, you don’t want to split all of your hair into these sections—you need to leave at least some hair down. For our half-up look, we’re picking up three small pieces at the hairline.
Step 4: Start braiding
Now, the braiding can really begin. Hold your three sections, two in one hand and the third in the other hand. Take the rightmost section and cross it under the center section.
Step 5: Cross again
Next, cross the left section under the center. Do this a couple of times, switching between the left and right side, to anchor the braid.
If you get stuck and lose track of which strand goes where, don’t be afraid to scrap the braid and start again. How do you think professional hair stylists get so good at this? It’s pure practice.
Step 6: Add more hair as you braid
Continue braiding as outlined above, but start incorporating more hair into each section as you braid. To do so, grab a small amount of hair from beside your braid, adding it to the right section before crossing the entire section under the center strand. Do the same with the left section (try to pick up the same amount of hair to keep your sections roughly equal in size).
Keep going until you complete the braid or run out of hair. If the latter occurs first, you can stop adding more hair and finish braiding with just your three strands.
Step 7: Finish it off
Once you reach the end of your Dutch braid, tie it off with an elastic. If you like the look of a thicker plait, this is where you can “pancake” the braid (in other words, pull it apart slightly), to create the illusion of fullness. Last but not least, spritz your mane with a little hairspray to help tame any flyaways and secure your braid. Try the Matrix High Amplify Proforma Hairspray to add shine and lock in your style.
6 Dutch Braid Hairstyles To Try
Now that you’ve mastered how to do a Dutch braid, you’re free to try different variations of the look. Keep scrolling for some of our favorite Dutch braid hairstyles.
Dutch Braid Crown
A crown braid is the perfect way to elevate your look for special occasions. And a Dutch braid crown is even better because the underhanded braiding technique makes your plait really pop out. (Find a full tutorial in the caption of the above Instagram post!)
Dutch Braid Faux Hawk
We can’t get enough of this unique mohawk-inspired ‘do. It features a big, bold Dutch braid down the center of the head, with the bottom layer of hair left down. With a looser weave, this style looks soft and pretty. But you can create a tighter braid and slick down the sides for an edgier finish.
Dutch Braid Accent
Sometimes, a little braid can make a big impact. Instead of weaving your entire mane into a single braid, incorporate a miniature Dutch braid into one of your go-to everyday styles. Here, a small plait takes a sleek ponytail to a whole new level.
Double Dutch Braided Bun
One Dutch braid is great, but two can be even better. To creat this look, split your hair down the middle and create two plaits. Stop weaving once you reach the nape of your neck, then gather the ends into a single section and twist it into a chic chignon. Don’t be afraid to also pull a few face-framing pieces out—it will give your style a more effortless look.
Double Dutch Ponytail
There are so many fun ways to style Dutch braid pigtails. Here’s another for you: Take your two braids and secure the ends into a ponytail instead of a bun. Then, loosen the plaits a little for a bit of bohemian flair.
Pro Tip: Unweave your Dutch braids at the end of the day, and you should be left with gorgeous, wavy texture. Turn that texture into a beachy next-day hairstyle with a few sprays of Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo.
Space Buns With Dutch Braids
Space buns are cute on their own, but if you’re looking for a more elaborate style, Dutch braided buns are your answer. First, create two Dutch braids, starting at the nape of your neck and working upward. When you reach the crown of your head, tie off the braids. Then, twist the ends of each into buns on either side of your head. Secure any loose strands with bobby pins, if needed.
One thing to note, since the underside of your strands will be on full display, you’ll want to ensure your hair is completely clean before you start weaving your braids. You can refresh your hair and scalp with the Biolage Professional Scalp Sync Clarifying Shampoo and Scalp Sync Universal Conditioner. Just make sure to follow up with a texturizer so your hair will have enough grip for the braids.
Next Up: 38 of the Best Braids for Short Hair
For customized braiding advice, use our salon locator to book an appointment with a stylist near you.
Header photo credit: @thisislaurendavis.