Characterized by their distinct square-shaped sections, box braids are a chic protective hairstyle that’s been permanently woven into the hearts of the natural hair community. The stunning plaits may look intricate, but learning how to do box braids is surprisingly easy with the right guidance and salon-quality haircare products. We tapped Rocky Bukasa, a Mizani and L’Oréal Professionnel educator, for tips on mastering the popular protective style at home. Here’s his guide to box braids for beginners and a few of his favorite formulas to try while styling. Get ready for a standout look that checks all the right boxes.
What Are Box Braids?
Box braids are a protective hairstyle that involves dividing hair into small, square-shaped sections on the scalp (hence the moniker "box" braids) before braiding.
“The boxes can be small, medium, or large," Bukasa says. "After the box has been created, the section of the hair in the box is then split into three even subsections and is braided all the way down to the ends."
Box braids are a popular hairstyle among those with textured hair as they help to protect strands against environmental stressors and styling manipulation (like heat styling and frequent combing). In addition, box braids are known to help hair retain moisture and minimize breakage so it can grow longer and stronger.
How Long Do Box Braids Last?
Box braids can last anywhere from 4-8 weeks, depending on the quality of your braids and how well you care for them. We have tips for the latter coming up soon.
Is It Better To Box Braid Wet or Dry Hair?
For a few reasons, it’s generally recommended to braid dry hair versus wet hair. For one, hair is weaker when it’s wet. As such, working strands into a tightly braided style can put unnecessary tension on your hair and scalp, causing breakage or fallout. Another reason you may want to braid dry hair is that it tends to be easier to create clean, even part lines, giving you a more polished result. Finally, wet hair can trap moisture close to the scalp and within your braids, which may lead to mildew growth or an unpleasant odor over time. With all this in mind, it’s wise to let your locks dry completely before braiding.
Do You Add Hair to Box Braids?
Similar to other long-term protective hairstyles, you can install box braids with human or synthetic hair. It’s not always required, but it’s a great option if you want to experiment with length or volume. Plus, adding hair can help you introduce some individuality to your look. For example, you can go bold and ask your stylist to add different colored extensions to your braids for definition and contrast. Bukasa says this is “perfect for braided updos" as they will really show off all the intricacies of your color.
Is Box Braiding Easy?
Box braiding is typically an easy hairstyling technique but may require trial and error. To ensure you’re pleased with your final result, book an appointment with a stylist who is well-versed in working with natural hair. A professional is your best bet to get this look just right, and they can also advise you on the best styles for your particular hair texture and length.
Good hair day by @izyourhair.
How To Do Box Braids: A Step-by-Step Guide
Taking a DIY approach to box braiding isn’t for everyone, but it’s still an option. Gather the appropriate supplies, then follow this easy box braid tutorial to learn how to box braid your own hair at home.
What you’ll need:
- Rat-tail comb for parting
- Clips to section hair
- Hair extensions or synthetic braiding hair (optional)
- Scissors for trimming the extensions
- Hair ties or elastics
- Hair gel or edge control (optional)
Step 1. Prepare your hair
Box braids can last up to two months, so you’ll want to remove as much dirt and buildup as possible before you start braiding. Reach for the Biolage Professional Scalp Sync Clarifying Shampoo to help gently remove styling residue, excess oil, and other grime. Or, for a more moisturizing routine, consider the Redken All Soft Mega Curls Shampoo and Conditioner to instantly nourish and deeply hydrate curly and coily hair.
Post-washing, Bukasa recommends applying a leave-in to prime strands for the braiding process. Among his favorite formulas is the Mizani 25 Miracle Milk Leave In Conditioner, which helps prep, protect, and moisturize hair for superior detangling and hydration. Apply it from mid-lengths to ends and let your hair dry.
Editor’s Tip: If you’re worried about shrinkage, stretch your hair using a blow dryer or weave dry hair into a traditional three-strand braid and leave it in overnight. For the former option, the aforementioned 25 Miracle Milk has heat protection to help you avoid scorching your hair.
Step 2. Section your hair
With your hair clean and dry, it’s time to section your hair on your scalp. Use the pointed side of a rat-tail comb to create neat square or rectangular boxes. To make things more manageable, begin with four quadrants and break those into smaller segments. The size of each section will ultimately determine the size of your braids. Clip away the hair you're not braiding so that it’s neat and untangled while you work.
Step 3. Prepare the extensions
If you decide to add braiding hair to your look, now’s the time to get it ready. Cut the braiding hair based on your desired length and thickness. Typically, braiding hair should be thicker and longer than your natural hair to ensure it blends into the braid and has the intended effect of adding length and volume.
Step 4. Start braiding
Create a traditional three-strand braid using your natural hair. Or, if you’re using extensions, gather a section of your natural hair and place a piece of the braiding hair on top before weaving your braid. The outer two strands should be your braiding hair, and the one strand in the middle should be your extensions.
Step 5. Continue braiding
The process for natural hair is pretty straightforward: Simply braid your hair down to the ends and tie it with an elastic. When it comes to extensions, however, keep braiding until you eventually run out of real hair to feed into the extensions. When that happens, continue braiding your faux hair all the way to the ends. By this time, your natural hair should be securely woven into the extensions, so there’s no need to worry about it falling out. Secure the ends with a clear elastic and repeat for each section of hair until your entire head is braided.
Step 6. Add your finishing touches
With braiding out of the way, now is the time to address any rogue flyaways or unkept edges.
“I recommend using Mizani Artful Edges Edge Control Gel. It can also be used while braiding to ensure that the locks are flawless,” Bukasa says. “Keep some of the gel for your baby hair in order to create some waves." Find more styling tips for your edges in our comprehensive edge guide, or up the glam factor by trying your hand at the galaxy edge trend.
Good hair day by @miloszhairstylist.
How To Maintain Box Braids
Now that you know the basics of how to box braid, you’ll want to ensure your hair looks and feels as healthy as possible while in the protective style. Here are our top aftercare tips.
Tend to your scalp
It’s a good idea to try to seal as much moisture into your scalp as possible before, during, and after braiding, as this can help minimize tenderness and dryness. Bukasa is a big fan of the Mizani Scalp Care Calming Lotion, which is formulated with menthol, eucalyptus oil, aloe, and avocado oil. It helps to maintain scalp comfort, which can sometimes become an issue during lengthy periods of wearing braids.
Wash your hair
One of the benefits of box braids is that they don’t require much daily styling intervention. Still, regular cleansing is essential to keep bacteria and fungus at bay. How often you wash your hair ultimately depends on your scalp type and personal preference, but every 2-3 weeks is typically a good rule of thumb.
To wash your hair in box braids, add a bit of clarifying shampoo into a spray bottle and dilute it with water. Shake to combine and spray the mixture onto your scalp, focusing on the areas between the braids where dirt and product buildup can accumulate. Gently massage your scalp with your fingertips to loosen any debris. Rinse with lukewarm water, directing the water flow downward so your braids don’t become tangled. Squeeze excess water from your strands with a towel and allow them to air dry. You can also sit under a hooded dryer to speed the process.
Protect your hair while you snooze
Keeping your braids neatly tied up at night can ward off frizz and breakage and prevent your hair from unraveling. One of the best ways to safeguard your plaits as you sleep is by wrapping them in a satin or silk scarf or bonnet. Check out our article, How to Do a Hair Wrap, for two different ways to wrap your locks before turning in at night. If wrapping your hair feels too constrictive (or if you’re a lazy girl at heart), consider opting for a satin or silk pillowcase instead.
Allow your strands to rest
After removing your box braids, it’s important to give your hair and scalp time to breathe before jumping into your next style. Overmanipulating your hair can weaken it and lead to breakage, which is the opposite of the intended effect of protective styles. Depending on the condition of your hair, this reset period may be anywhere from a few days to a month or more. When in doubt, head to the salon for help determining the right timeline based on your hair’s needs.
Good hair day by @niaraalexis.
How To Pick a Box Braid Style
One of the biggest upsides to box braids is how customizable they are. As Bukasa mentioned, you can go as small or as large as you’d like with the boxes, and you can even create geometric designs to give your mane visual interest. And, through the addition of braiding hair, your braids can be as wide, narrow, short, or long to suit your tastes and inspiration. “My favorite look is to wear them tied up," he says. "Get this look by creating knots using the braids, then use the knots to create an updo.”
He expands: “Another way to wear your braids is with a loose wavy texture, creating an easy, carefree bohemian vibe.” To pull this off, just keep a few tendrils of hair out of each braided section and touch them up with a curling iron (be sure to apply heat protectant first!). Or, apply a bit of lightweight holding lotion, like the Matrix A Curl Can Dream Defining Light Hold Gel, to your tendrils and wrap them around your finger to create heatless definition.
Don’t be boxed in by your style—let your imagination go wild. Consult with your stylist about which of these looks might be right for your lifestyle. You can use our salon locator to book today.
Next Up: How To Do a Two-Strand Twist Hairstyle
Header photo credit: @hannahh_lu
