If your flat, pin-straight strands won't hold a curl, a digital perm may be just what you need to enjoy long-lasting waves—without emptying a can of hairspray. While the word "perm" may stir up unpleasant memories of kinky ’80s hair, the digital perm is a modernized technique that gives your mane natural-looking texture and movement. Below, we’re breaking down everything you need to know about this salon service, including who’s a candidate for it, how to care for your new curl pattern, and more.
What Is a Digital Perm?
As a quick refresher, a perm is a chemical process that alters the hair’s internal structure so it can take on a new shape (usually waves or curls). A digital perm, more specifically, is a type of perm that uses heat and digital technology to create a subtly wavy or curly pattern in the hair. The service originated in Asia as a way to give very thick, ultra-straight hair the appearance of soft, effortless waves. Now, the digital perm has made its way into salons worldwide thanks to its ability to add more texture, volume, and body to most straighter hair types.
What Is a Digital Perm vs. a Traditional Perm?
A digital perm uses heat and digital technology to create soft, natural-looking waves, whereas a traditional perm (also known as a cold perm) relies on chemicals and cold rods to create tighter, more structured curls.
Mizani stylist and texture expert Carla Marcelle Pagán expands: “The difference between a digital perm and a traditional perm is that a digital perm [uses] rods that are electronically heated to maintain the integrity of the curl from the inside out.” During a digital perm treatment, your stylist will also apply your chemical solution before winding your hair around the rods. That’s in contrast to a more classic perm, which involves pre-wrapping your hair and then drenching it in a solution to form its new texture.
Another notable difference between these two types of perms is the final look they create. Digital perms usually result in loose waves or curls placed from the mid-lengths through the ends of your hair. Traditional perms, on the other hand, often produce a tighter, more uniform texture from root to tip.
Is a digital perm better than a regular perm?
Which type of perm is better is completely subjective. The best choice for you depends on various factors, including your natural hair type, desired curl pattern, and preferred amount of upkeep. But with that in mind, those with longer hair may see better results from a digital perm, as the length can showcase the full shape of the waves. When in doubt, chat with your stylist to help you decide which kind of perm will suit your needs.
Is a digital perm less damaging?
Using heat or chemicals on your hair will always result in some damage, but a skilled stylist will do their best to maintain the health and integrity of your hair throughout the process. It’s also highly recommended to schedule a consultation with them beforehand to ensure your hair is in good shape for a perm.
“Open and honest conversation about your hair, what you’re looking for, and its history is super, super important,” Pagán emphasizes. “Your color history is going to be a big part of that conversation because there are limits to what we can do based on what you may have already had done on your hair.”
What Does a Digital Perm Entail?
A digital perm begins at the salon with a thorough clarifying wash to remove oils and product buildup. From there, a special perming solution will be applied to help loosen your hair bonds and prepare them for reshaping. If you’re unfamiliar with hair bonds, they’re simply the chemical connections that give hair its shape, structure, and elasticity. They control whether your hair is straight and smooth versus curly and frizzy (or anything in between).
Once your perming solution processes and gets rinsed out, your stylist will then begin wrapping sections of your hair around the heated rods. The size of the rods—combined with their temperature and how they’re placed—all influence your final look and allow for more control over your curl pattern.
With the heated rods in place, a neutralizing solution will be dispensed over your hair to help reset its pH and form its new curl structure. Everything will sit on your hair for an allotted amount of time (this can vary based on your hair type and density) until it’s ready to be washed, dried, and styled.
How Long Does a Digital Perm Last?
A digital perm can last anywhere between three months to a year, depending on your hair type, damage level, and aftercare routine. Those with healthy, virgin hair may see longer-lasting results since strands can better hold their new shape. By comparison, anyone with high porosity hair (which can occur from bleaching or coloring) may see the effects fade a bit faster.
Generally speaking, digital perms tend to be lower-maintenance than other types of perms since the waves are placed from the mid-lengths to ends of the hair. This allows for a more natural grow-out, meaning you can go longer between touch-ups without noticeable root regrowth or unevenness.
How Do You Care For a Digital Perm?
“Just like any chemical service, at-home care is going to be critical for the success of your investment,” says Pagán. She also notes that it ensures your curls are well taken care of. Here are a few ways to maintain the healthy appearance and integrity of your strands after getting a digital perm.
Don’t wash it right away
Editor’s Tip: If your hair gets greasy quickly, revive your roots with Redken’s Deep Clean Dry Shampoo. This high-performance dry shampoo removes excess oil to refresh up to fourth-day hair, leaving it looking and feeling clean. If you have dark hair and worry about dry shampoo leaving a white cast, opt for Redken’s Invisible Dry Shampoo. It features an invisible formula that absorbs oils while eliminating the risk of product residue.
Keep your strands moisturized
“All texture, whether chemically produced or naturally produced, need care and lots and lots of moisture,” says Pagán. As such, every product that touches your hair should be as hydrating as possible. We love lathering up with Pureology’s Hydrate Shampoo and Conditioner Duo, as well as Matrix’s A Curl Can Dream Weightless Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner. The latter pair was specifically designed to provide waves with definition and frizz protection without weighing them down.
A deep conditioning mask will also come in handy to ward off brittleness and dehydration. Matrix’s Food For Soft Rich Hydrating Treatment Mask, which is infused with skincare-inspired ingredients like hyaluronic acid and avocado oil, helps replenish hydration in even the driest and most porous of hair types.
After showering, reach for a leave-in treatment to prep your hair for styling. Our pick is Redken’s All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment, which promotes moisture retention for healthy-looking and feeling hair. Plus, it’ll leave your hair looking shiny.
Switch up your detangling routine
Brushing through permed, wet hair can cause even more damage to already weakened strands. The reason: Wet hair is more fragile, and aggressively brushing through it can disrupt your curl pattern and result in breakage. To make the process a bit gentler, spritz a detangling solution like Biolage Professional’s All-In-One Coconut Infusion Multi-Benefit Spray onto damp hair to help loosen up knots. Then, use a wide-tooth comb or your fingertips to gently work through snarls, working up from the bottom of your strands. Check out our article, Types of Hair Brushes: Which Brush Is Right for You?, for more advice on all things hair-brushing.
Embrace air-drying
Styling a digital perm is easy because you can let your hair air dry into natural waves. However, prepping your hair with the right formulas can help you get the most out of your pattern. We suggest scrunching a leave-in like Matrix A Curl Can Dream Scrunch N' Go Defining Spray through clean, damp hair. This defining formula for waves and curls offers up to 48 hours* of bouncy wave definition and frizz protection.
*vs. non-conditioning shampooLearn how to plop your hair
Plopping is another great method for air-drying wavy hair. For the uninitiated, plopping is a technique that involves gathering wet hair at the top of your head, wrapping it in a T-shirt, and letting it dry. It’s said to help condense waves and curls as they dry for a bouncy, well-defined finish. We recommend using a lightweight mousse like Mizani’s Styling Foam Wrap to help shape and hold your waves. The anti-frizz, non-flaking formula balances hydration, shine, and hold to help create the ultimate luxurious wet set. For a full plopping tutorial, check out our guide, How to Plop Your Hair in 7 Easy Steps.
Protect your hair from heat
Sometimes, picking up a blow dryer or curling wand is key for creating new styles. When that time comes, be sure to prep your hair with a good heat protectant to keep damage at bay. We’re partial to L’Oréal Professionnel’s Metal Detox Leave-In Styling Cream, which helps deeply moisturize hair while protecting against harsh metals, UV rays, and heat from styling tools. It’s also smart to always use the lowest effective temperature setting on your hot tools to prevent scorching your strands.
Ready to try a digital perm? Use our salon locator to book with a pro in your area. Or, for more personalized haircare advice, take our hair quiz.
Next Up: Types of Perms For Every Hair Type and Length
Header photo credits (left to right): @aria_etudewsalon and @meinmarais_hair