If you’ve ever lightened your hair, you probably know how much upkeep goes into maintaining that fresh, vibrant hue. I would know—I touch up my blonde, color-treated hair about once every two months. Whenever I prepare to see my colorist again, I ensure my strands are at least two days post-wash. I’ve never minded skipping a few shampoo sessions and loading up on dry shampoo, as I've always thought it was better for my impending salon color. But I eventually began to wonder: Should I wash my hair before I dye it?
I know I’m far from the first person to question this—in fact, there’s a bit of a beauty debate about whether it’s better to show up to the salon with freshly washed or dirty hair. To help get to the bottom of this, Hair.com spoke with L’Oréal Professionnel artist Katie Collette. Ahead, she helps us confirm (and dispel) some of the most burning hair coloring myths. Keep scrolling for everything you need to know.
True or False: You Can Dye Your Hair Whether It’s Clean or Dirty
True. If you’ve ever wondered, “Should I wash my hair before color?” unfortunately, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer: Whether or not you’re better off going to the salon with dirty hair ultimately depends on factors like your skin type and hair type. For example, if you have sensitive skin, skipping a wash or two allows natural oils (a.k.a. “grease”) to build up on your scalp. These oils can, in theory, help protect the scalp against potential irritation caused by the dye. That’s not to say that dyeing freshly washed hair is out of the question, though. You can also ask your stylist about using an ammonia-free hair dye to help reduce the chances of an adverse reaction.
As mentioned, your hair type can play a role, too. Those with oily hair may only need to wait one day between their last shampoo and next dye job. People with dry hair, meanwhile, may need 2-3 days in between to allow enough oil to build up.
Good hair day by @fouronethree_salon.
True or False: The Coloring Service Matters
True. Another way to decide whether or not you should show up for your appointment with freshly washed hair is to consider your chosen color service. Normally, heading to the salon with oily strands wouldn’t make too much of a difference for a simple root touch-up. However, Collette warns that unwashed hair can alter the results of a full-head dye job, especially if you have lighter hair. She explains that the oils in dirty hair can actually make your hair look a shade or two darker than it truly is. As a result, you may need to lather up before your color appointment so your stylist can get a precise look at your hair’s current level.
The same also applies to darker tones, according to Collette. “Anytime you want to deepen your color or add lowlights, clean hair offers the most accurate read of your natural color,” she says. “This will allow your colorist the best match when determining the level of depth for your service.”
Good hair day by @hair.julierussita.
True or False: It’s Best To Skip a Wash or Two Prior To Bleaching
True. Know what your desired color entails, and prepare accordingly. For light blonde or fantasy colors that require a decent amount of bleaching, it’s generally best to skip a few washes before hitting the salon. Collette says bleach typically shouldn’t irritate your scalp, but it can’t hurt to let oil build up and add an extra layer of protection between your skin and the bleach.
Keep in mind that color-wise, the end result will usually be the same whether you’re going to the salon with freshly washed or dirty hair. Allowing oil to accumulate before bleaching your strands is solely to nourish your scalp and should have no impact on your desired color.
True or False: It’s Best To Show up to Your Appointment With Wet Hair
False. Most permanent hair color formulas need to be applied to dry hair and having to dry your hair at the start of the appointment can result in wasted time and even extra fees. Whether you choose to wash your hair prior to your appointment or arrive with second-day strands, make sure your hair is dry by the time you arrive at the salon.
True or False: You Should Take a Break From Shampoo After Your Appointment
True. Whether you've gone lighter or darker, it's totally fine (in fact, it's encouraged) to wait at least 48 hours before washing your hair after your coloring appointment. Doing so gives your new hue more time to bond with your strands and can help your dye job last longer and appear more vibrant. If you can’t stand having grease roots, give them a few quick sprays of Redken Deep Clean Dry Shampoo to help refresh up to fourth-day hair.
Once you do suds up, reach for a color-protecting shampoo and conditioner system like Matrix Color Obsessed Shampoo and Color Obsessed Conditioner. This antioxidant-infused duo helps enhance shine and extend the life of color-treated hair by up to 32 washes. And, if you bleached your hair, you’ll also want to swap a toning shampoo into your routine to keep brassy undertones at bay. Matrix So Silver Purple Shampoo helps neutralize yellow warmth in blonde to gray hair, while Matrix Brass Off Shampoo is ideal for removing orange tones in lightened brunette hair.
Next Up: Here's How Often You Should Really Wash Your Hair
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Header photo credits (left to right): @hair.julierussita and @matrix
