When shopping for haircare products like shampoo and conditioner, you probably seek out those made for your hair type, such as curly, thick, straight, or fine. And while that’s certainly valid, there’s so much more to our hair than its outward appearance. Hair porosity—essentially, how absorbent your hair is—is just as important to keep in mind. Low porosity hair, for example, is difficult to penetrate, so providing it with adequate hydration can be challenging if you’re not using the right products.
To further explain how to determine if you have low porosity hair (and what that means), we chatted with Pureology Educator Shon Washington. Ahead, Washington reveals a few ways to identify your hair’s porosity, plus tips, tricks, and advice on caring for low porosity hair.
What Is Low Porosity Hair?
Low porosity hair is characterized by having a tightly bound cuticle layer. However, to fully understand what it means to have low porosity hair, you must first understand what porosity has to do with hair’s overall structure and function.
You can’t see it with the naked eye, but each strand of hair is made up of thousands (if not more) of overlapping cells. Your hair’s porosity, Washington explains, is a measure of how much open space there is between those cells. The more space, the more porous your hair is. High porosity hair has the most space, and is, therefore, the most absorbent, followed by medium porosity hair. But in low porosity hair, Washington explains, “the cuticle scales (dead cells overlapping in layers) are smooth and flat with few gaps, so less water can penetrate to the deeper layers or escape.” The lack of open spaces between these cells makes low porosity hair less absorbent, she adds, which can make it “difficult to moisturize and style.”
Is low porosity hair good or bad?
Low porosity hair isn’t inherently good or bad—the key is to understand your hair type so that you can properly care for it. Knowing you have low porosity hair allows you to tailor your routine to your hair’s unique needs. This way, your mane has a better chance of looking and feeling its best.
Good hair day by @benjaminrosshair
What Are the Signs of Low Porosity Hair?
According to Washington, straight hair is likelier to have low porosity than wavy, curly, or coily strands. That’s because a tightly packed cuticle layer typically equates to strands with a smoother, more reflective surface. Curl pattern aside, a few other common indicators of having a low porosity hair type can include:
- Takes a long time to get wet. When you wet your hair, it may seem like it takes forever to become fully saturated with water. That’s because hair’s super-compact cuticles can make it harder for moisture to infiltrate—but on the flip side, this generally means your hair is less prone to frizz.
- Difficult for products to absorb. Similar to water, hair products like conditioners, oils, and styling creams may also sit on your hair’s surface versus immediately sinking in. As a result, your hair may feel greasy or coated even after washing the products away. Your hair may also appear dull and weighed down from the excess buildup.
- Dry ends. Despite using moisturizing formulas, your hair may look dry or feel brittle to the touch, especially at the ends where hair is older and drier. Again, this can be traced back to how low porosity hair is often resistant to moisture.
- Extra shiny. When properly cared for and moisturized, low porosity hair can appear smooth and lustrous. The lack of gaps in the cuticle allows it to better reflect light, giving your mane a glossy finish.
How Can I Tell if I Have Low Porosity Hair?
If you think you have low porosity hair, there are a few things you can try to help confirm whether you do. One test Washington suggests is what we’ll call the spray bottle test. Basically: Mist your hair with a spray bottle and look closely at what happens with the little beads of water. Low porosity hair, Washington says, “takes a while” to get fully wet. So if the little beads of water linger a bit before saturating your hair, chances are good you have low porosity hair.
You can also test your hair’s porosity by plucking out a strand and placing it in a glass of water. If it floats, rather than sinks, it’s not very absorbent and is, therefore, a good indication that you have low porosity hair.
While these tests can certainly help you make an educated guess about your hair’s porosity, we always recommend booking a consultation with a stylist for the most accurate assessment. If you’re in need of personalized hair advice while you wait, be sure to take our Hair Quiz for more expert-approved tips.
How Do You Fix Low Porosity Hair?
Low porosity is generally not something you can easily fix or change (nor do you have to). According to Washington, your hair’s porosity is usually genetic, though it may change throughout your life in response to factors like chemical processing and environmental damage. Creating a haircare routine with your mane’s unique needs in mind can help “make your hair healthier, more manageable, and easier to style,” she says
One of the most important things to keep in mind is that low porosity hair won’t absorb products readily and, therefore, can be prone to buildup. To help hydrate the hair without excessive residue, Washington recommends using products with natural oils that can penetrate the cuticle more easily. You may also want to consider steaming your hair. The steam, Washington explains, softens and relaxes the hair cuticle, which may make it easier for your hydrating products to enter the hair strands.
What Should Those With Low Porosity Hair Avoid?
As we mentioned, low porosity hair can be prone to buildup. As such, you’ll want to avoid smoothing treatments, particularly those that contain protein (like keratin). As Washington notes, this is because low porosity hair cuticles are “already smooth, and protein smoothing treatments may cause a buildup of protein on the surface of the strand.”
You’ll also want to avoid silicones and products with heavy butters. The reason: Most silicones are not water soluble, and some butters may repel water, which is the opposite of what you want when you have low porosity strands.
What Are the Best Products for Low Porosity Hair?
The best products for low porosity hair are typically those that add moisture without weighing your strands down. For shampoo, Washington recommends Pureology Hydrate Sheer Shampoo and Conditioner. The former provides a gentle, hydrating cleanse, while the latter moisturizes each strand without weighing them down for soft, hydrated hair.
Once a week, give your hair some extra TLC with the avocado and coconut oil-infused Purelogy Hydrate Superfood Treatment, a deep conditioner that provides intense moisture for soft, hydrated strands. Have color-treated hair? Try Pureology Color Fanatic Deep Treatment Mask instead: it’s specifically formulated to help protect your color from fading. (You can also use the brand’s Color Fanatic Multi-Tasking Leave-in Spray to help keep your hue vibrant between salon visits).
Finally, if you do experience buildup, Washington encourages swapping out your usual shampoo for Pureology Pure Volume Shampoo and Conditioner as needed. The system “clarifies, enhances volume, and restores movement in finer hair,” leaving it bouncy and healthy-looking.
How Should You Apply Products to Low Porosity Hair?
Choosing the right products for low porosity hair is only half the battle. For the best results, you should also know the correct application order. Enter: the LCO method. If you’re not yet familiar with LCO, now’s the time to get acquainted. Simply put, LCO is an acronym for liquid, cream, oil, which represents the sequence in which you should apply your styling products (from lightest to heaviest) for the maximum benefit. Fans of the LCO technique believe it’s the most effective way to moisturize your hair and prevent that moisture from escaping. Plus, layering your formulas from thinnest to thickest is less likely to weigh your hair down, a major bonus for those with straighter (read: lower porosity) hair textures.
To begin, you’ll want to douse your hair with water or a water-based leave-in conditioner to fill your strands with, well, water. Next, apply a nourishing hair cream to help further trap in moisture and hydrate the hair’s exterior. Shu Uemura Art of Hair’s Essence Absolue Rich Nourishing Hair Cream is among our favorite creams to help rehydrate the hair while protecting against both heat and UV-induced damage. Finally, comes an oil, which creates a protective barrier over your hair to prevent that hydration from evaporating. According to a study published in the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI), castor oil, jojoba oil, and argan oil are all proven moisture-sealers. For this step, we’re partial to Redken’s All Soft Argan 6 Hair Oil, which is chock full of argan oil. Let your hair air-dry, and you’re good to go.
Next Up: A Guide to Low, Medium, and High Porosity
Book an appointment with an expert who knows how to properly care for your low porosity hair and other mane needs using our salon locator.
Header photo credits (left to right): @pureology, @benjaminrosshair, and @shuuemura_artofhair/
