If you have curly or coily hair, you’re likely no stranger to dealing with dry, frizzy, or unmanageable strands. It’s no secret that textured hair has unique needs, requiring thoughtful consideration and care to look its absolute best. In the seemingly endless quest for personalized styling solutions, two popular strategies have emerged in the natural hair community: the LOC and LCO methods. These techniques, although similar in principle, slightly differ in how haircare products are applied to ensure optimal hydration and curl definition. This begs the question: Which method is better, LCO or LOC?
We teamed up with Ashley Lee, Mizani brand ambassador and stylist, to get the scoop about how these application methods differ. We’re also breaking down a few of our favorite haircare products to try them with. Keep scrolling to discover how you can help your mane feel more moisturized than ever before.
Good hair day by @rosibelhair.
What Is the LOC Method?
The LOC method is an acronym for liquid, oil, and cream, representing the order in which styling products should be applied. This sequence of layering products is believed to maximize hydration and enhance curl definition in highly porous, coily hair types. The general steps are as follows:
- Liquid or leave-in: Start with a water-based product or leave-in conditioner to help immediately hydrate your hair. If you don’t have a leave-in conditioner on hand, water works, too. The key is to ensure you have enough moisture in your strands so that you can lock it all in during the subsequent steps.
- Oil: Apply an oil (formulas with coconut oil, argan oil, or jojoba oil are popular options) to provide additional nourishment and help create a moisture-locking barrier over your strands.
- Cream: Finally, use a cream-based product (like a curl cream or butter) to help define and hold your waves, curls, or coils.
What Is the LCO Method?
In the LCO method, you use the same products as the LOC method, but you swap the order of your cream and liquid. Applying formulas from lightest to heaviest (liquid, cream, oil) is thought to help products better sink into your strands instead of just sitting on top of them.
The LCO method also typically involves waiting to apply oil until your strands have absorbed the liquid and cream. Why wait, you ask? The answer is simple: Water and oil don’t mix. According to Lee, “By applying oil on dry hair, oil is able to really work into the hair, not just sit on top and block out product as it might in the LOC method.”
What Is the Difference Between the LOC Method and the LCO Method?
The key differences between the LOC method and the LCO method are the order in which they are applied and how they work to seal the hair.
- Order of application: In the LOC method, you apply liquid, oil, and cream in that order. For the LCO method, you apply cream before oil.
- Sealing technique: The last step in both methods is meant to seal in moisture. Some people find that applying an oil last (LCO) provides better moisture retention, while others prefer a hydrating curl cream for the job (LOC).
Good hair day by @mo__beautii & @rezosalon.
Which Is Better, the LOC Method or LCO Method?
There isn’t a definitive answer as to whether the LOC or LCO method is better. Which one you should try mostly boils down to personal preference and how your hair responds to different layering techniques. Your curl type and hair porosity can also help you pick the right method for you.
In general, many experts believe that LOC is ideal for high-porosity hair, a common characteristic of coily hair types (4A-4C). In highly porous hair, the cuticle layer is raised, allowing moisture to flow in and out of the hair without actually getting locked in. As such, applying an oil followed by a thicker cream can help ensure maximum moisture gets sealed into the hair shaft. Plus, LOC can also keep frizz at bay and prepare your hair for styling.
The LCO method, on the other hand, is typically better suited to those with low-porosity hair. Having low porosity hair means that your strands have a more tightly bound cuticle layer, making it harder for water, moisture, and nourishing haircare formulas to penetrate properly. The LCO method can help ensure all of your products absorb as intended—and applying an oil last can theoretically help create a stronger barrier against moisture loss. In addition, LCO tends to be well-tolerated among those with looser curl patterns since following a lightest-to-heaviest application order is less likely to weigh hair down.
At the end of the day, there aren’t any strict rules to adhere to. Play around with the order of your products until you find the routine that helps your hair look and feel its best.
Our Favorite Leave-Ins, Oils, and Creams
Whether your hair is long, short, wavy, textured, or something in between, Lee says the key to making either method work for you is to find the right products for your hair.
She expands: “For fine hair, choose lighter products in lesser quantities. For hair that is dense or coarse, select products that are more intensely moisturizing for longer-lasting results.”
If you’re looking for products to add to your next wash and styling day, here are some of our top picks.
Mizani 25 Miracle Milk Leave-In Conditioner
This lightweight leave-in penetrates deep into strands to help prep, protect, and moisturize hair for superior detangling and hydration. And, as its name hints, the formula boasts 25 hair-nourishing benefits, from frizz control to heat protection.
Biolage Professional Hydra Source Daily Leave-In Tonic
Dry hair is no match for this Biolage Professional tonic. The formula, which is inspired by the hydrating aloe plant, helps optimize moisture balance for healthy-looking hair. You can also rely on it to help strengthen your hair, enhance shine, and reduce breakage.
Mizani 25 Miracle Cream
Besides its ability to define and moisturize dry ringlets, UV protection is what sets this leave-in cream apart from the rest. A little goes a long way, too: Just emulsify a nickel to quarter-sized amount of product in your hands and apply it from your mid-lengths to ends to reap all 25 of its benefits.
Matrix A Curl Can Dream Moisturizing Cream
The manuka honey-infused A Curl Can Dream Moisturizing Cream can help keep flaking and crunchiness at bay. Apply this cream from the roots to the ends of your hair before scrunching or diffusing to help coax out your natural texture.
Redken Hydrating Curl Cream
If you’re dealing with undefined, dehydrated, or unmanageable hair, Redken’s Hydrating Curl Cream can help turn things around. It’s ideal for those with curl patterns 2B–4C looking for curl enhancement and frizz control. Plus, the hydrating cream offers up to 72 hours of moisture and gives strands light hold.
Mizani 25 Miracle Nourishing Oil
Regardless of whether you opt for LOC or LCO, Lee recommends everyone use a lightweight oil. However, not all oils are created equal. While the coconut, almond, and olive oils that line your grocery shelves may have gained a reputation for being good hair moisturizers, Lee says you’re better off using a salon-quality hair oil.
“Heavy oils are unable to penetrate the hair strand and sit on top [of the hair], which can lead to many problems.” She explains that professional hair oils typically contain ingredients that are already broken down, allowing hair to receive proper moisture from the formula.
If you’re looking for a new hair oil, consider the 25 Miracle Nourishing Oil from Mizani. The lightweight smoothing oil is formulated with sunflower, jojoba, olive, and coconut oils and, like the other Mizani Miracle products, features 25 benefits.
Kérastase Elixir Ultime L'Huile Original Hair Oil
Achieve radiant shine with Kérastase’s iconic hair oil infused with wild camellia. The luxurious elixir helps control frizz, strengthen hair, and provide heat protection up to 450°F. Plus, it now comes in a refillable glass bottle, which can make it a true mainstay in your routine (and on your vanity).
Next Up: How to Achieve a Wash-and-Go Hairstyle for Natural Hair
Header photo credits (left to right): @mo__beautii and @rezosalon, @rosibelhair
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