What Exactly Is the Difference Between Foilyage and Balayage? Here’s What Colorists Say

What Is Balayage?

Balayage is a freehand highlighting technique that creates a natural-looking transition of color from your roots to ends. According to Murphy, the technique involves hand-painting bleach or lightener onto individual strands of hair in a sweeping motion, targeting areas the sun would naturally hit. (Fun fact: The word balayage comes from the French verb for “to sweep.”) This hand-painting method allows for a gradual color lift and results in a soft, subtle ombré effect with darker roots and lighter ends.

What Is Foilyage?

Foilyage, like balayage, involves hand-painting lightener onto specific strands of hair. However, the hair is typically teased prior to the application of the bleach. Additionally, Dorr says, foilyage involves wrapping the lightened strands in foil (hence the name) “to intensify and accelerate the color processing.” This, she adds, can result in a lighter, brighter blonde than traditional balayage. Murphy loves using foilyage vs. balayage for clients who need extra help with lift and more precise pieces. “It allows control of the level [I want] to achieve,” she explains.

Photo credit: @rebecca.murphy.beauty

What Is the Difference Between Partial Foil and Balayage?

Partial foils (in other words, partial highlights) involve lightening the hair just around the face and part line, then wrapping the strands in foil to process. Wrapping the hair in foil helps amplify the color processing, so hair may lighten several levels. Balayage, by contrast, doesn’t utilize foils, and the lightener is usually painted throughout the hair for a softer, sunkissed effect.

Good hair day by @lexxy_hermosa.

What is the difference between highlights and foilyage?

Highlights typically start at the roots, with lightener applied onto select strands over the entire head for an all-over brightening effect. With foilyage, the lightener is hand-painted a bit further down to create an intentionally “lived-in” look. Because the lightener is kept away from the roots, Murphy says, “foilyage will have a softer grow-out, allowing you to go longer between appointments.” Whether you get partial highlights or foilyage, opting for root blending can also help stretch the time between touch-ups.

Good hair day by @debpalaciohairstylist.

Should I Get Foilyage or Balayage?

When it comes to deciding between foilyage and balayage, it’s ultimately a matter of personal preference. Both of these techniques can be adapted for any hair type, color, or texture, and a stylist can help determine which technique is best for you. But there are a few factors you should consider before making a decision, such as the overall look you’re trying to achieve, how often you’re willing to return for touch-ups, and, of course, the amount of money you are willing to spend. We’ll dive a bit deeper into these considerations below.

Color goals

Foilyage and balayage yield similar results, but your stylist can help you determine which technique is best aligned with your color goals. When you book a color consultation, Murphy suggests bringing inspiration photos with you. You’ll also want to “share [details of] your past color history,” she says, as prior chemical treatments can affect the end result.

Maintenance

Both foilyage and balayage require between two and three hours to apply and process. However, maintenance for the two services can vary. Murphy suggests balayage for those looking for a hair color that requires minimal maintenance, as the highlights typically start midway on the head and grow out seamlessly, requiring fewer touch-ups over time. Factors such as your hair type, texture, and color can all influence how often you need to visit the salon. Your stylist can help determine which option is right for you.

Cost

Your desired look, how much hair you have, and your current hair color can all affect how much your color service will cost. The price may also depend on where you live and how experienced your colorist is. Therefore, it’s hard to accurately compare the prices of foilyage versus balayage—it varies. Chat with your stylist about your budget and expectations, and they can come up with a plan that suits you.

Is Foilyage or Balayage Better for Curly Hair Textures?

Both foilyage and balayage can work on curly and straight textures. But with that said, both Murphy and Dorr prefer balayage for curly hair. The technique results in a soft, sunkissed look, with contrast that emphasizes your natural curl pattern. That being said, you can certainly opt for foilyage if you want a brighter, more intense lightening effect—just be sure to chat with your stylist about any hair concerns you have prior to your appointment so they can adjust the technique for your curls.

Good hair day by @hairbynoah.

How Should I Prep My Hair for Foilyage and Balayage?

There are a few things you can do prior to your appointment to help set your service up for success.

First, wash your hair. Murphy recommends using a clarifying shampoo (we love Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Clarifying Shampoo) to ensure your strands are thoroughly cleaned and free of debris that can interfere with your color.

You’ll also want to dry your hair, but don’t put any product in it (this includes leave-in conditioners, styling aids, and gels). Ultimately, you want your stylist to be able to see your hair as it is naturally, so they can tailor a plan that works for your locks. Following these simple steps can make a noticeable difference in the results you get from foilyage and balayage.

Good hair day by @themaliaelaine.

How Do I Maintain Foilyage and Balayage Hair Color?

Whereas traditional highlights require regular touch-ups to hide root growth, foilyage and balayage are relatively low-maintenance. “Some of my clients [only] come in for a full refresh once a year,” Dorr says. “The lighter clients who like to keep up with their color come about once a quarter.”

To keep your color looking fresh between touch-ups—however often those may be—you’ll want to cultivate a solid at-home haircare regimen. Here are some recommendations to help revamp your routine.

Good hair day by @taylordidmyhair.

Strengthen your hair

Hair bonds—more specifically, disulfide bonds—are essential in maintaining the structure and strength of your hair. But lightening your hair with bleach in pursuit of a balayage or foilyage can permanently break down those bonds and alter the look and feel of your locks. The resulting damage can manifest as brittleness, loss of elasticity, and increased porosity.

To help restore the look and feel of overprocessed hair, Murphy is a fan of using the Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Complete Set, which contains a pre-shampoo, shampoo, conditioner, liquid mask, and leave-in treatment. All the products in the system contain citric acid and a concentrated Bonding Care Complex to help reinforce weakened hair bonds and improve hair’s resiliency. In fact, using them together as a system can help combat one year of visible damage in just one use,* reduce breakage by 56%,** and leave locks 9X smoother.** Learn more about the range in our Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Review.

Those with overprocessed curls, on the other hand, can scoop up a more dedicated bond repair system: the Redken Acidic Bonding Curls Trio. This three-part set is ideal for 3A to 4C hair types and works to restore the pattern of damaged curls, promote strength, improve elasticity, and rebuild hair bonds. See how the trio transformed one editor’s frazzled coils in our Redken Acidic Bonding Curls Review.

Restore moisture

Hair coloring and bleaching can damage hair’s outer cuticle layer, making it harder for strands to retain moisture. As such, Murphy touts Matrix Food for Soft as another must-have collection for dry, lightened hair.

The line includes a Hydrating Shampoo, Detangling Hydrating Conditioner, Rich Hydrating Treatment Mask, and Multi-Use Hair Oil Serum. She finds their avocado oil and hyaluronic acid-infused formulas to be “very nourishing for the hair.”

Good hair day by @sylla_l.

Address hard water damage

If the color of your balayage or foilyage seems to be shifting, it may be due to hard water in your shower pipes. Per the United States Geological Survey (USGS), hard water is defined as having a higher concentration of minerals—namely, calcium and magnesium—present. When these minerals accumulate on your hair, they can alter, fade, or dull your professional salon color.

For her clients who have hard water at home, Murphy recommends using L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Metal Detox Hair Mask every few washes to help brighten highlights and remove build-up from minerals in the water. The duo is formulated with patented technology that helps neutralize and remove harmful metals and prevent future particles from penetrating the hair fiber.

Banish brassy tones

Brassiness refers to the unwanted warmth that can gradually appear in lightened hair. On blonde to gray hair, these tones typically look yellow. Meanwhile, on lightened brown hair, these pigments usually skew orange.

To help restore cool tones to your mane, it’s a good idea to reach for a toning shampoo. This type of tinted haircare formula deposits vivid pigments (often blue, purple, or green) onto hair’s surface to help neutralize the appearance of brass. Different colors address different undertones based on basic color theory: Shades that lay opposite from each other on the color wheel cancel out when combined. For example, you should pick up a purple shampoo like Shu Uemura Art of Hair Yūbi Blonde Anti-Brass to offset yellow warmth in blonde hair and scoop up a blue shampoo like Matrix Brass Off to counteract orange tones in brunette hair.

Read more about toning shampoos and how they work in our article, Purple vs. Blue Shampoo: What's the Difference?

Streamline your styling routine

The one product that Dorr believes everyone should have on hand is the Pureology Color Fanatic Multi-Tasking Leave-In Spray because it has 21 benefits: heat protection, moisture, ease of detangling, enhanced shine, and so much more. Not to mention, it contains the brand’s patented AntiFade Complex to help keep your balayage or foilyage looking vibrant. Just a few quick spritzes are all you need to tackle multiple hair concerns and prep your strands for styling.

Foilyage vs. Balayage: The Bottom Line

Instead of taking length away, consider adding length with braids. We can’t lie—this hairstyle requires a time and cost investment up front. But it will help keep your hair looking gorgeous and frizz-free, so we’d say the juice is worth the squeeze.

Both balayage and foilyage are excellent techniques for brightening and adding dimension to the hair. Whichever option you decide on, setting up a consultation with a professional is the first step towards making your hair color dreams a reality. Then, you’ll have to tweak your at-home haircare routine to help your stunning color last as long as possible. Find some inspo pics here, then set up that appointment—a blonder, brighter you awaits.

Next Up: Ask An Expert: Should I Wash My Hair Before I Color It?

Ready to book your foilyage or balayage appointment? Use our salon locator to find a colorist near you.

Header image credit: @rebecca.murphy.beauty