Once upon a time, there was one straightforward way to wash our hair: shampoo, condition, rinse, and repeat. Over the years, however, many new iterations of the hair-washing process have come to our attention thanks to social media: reverse hair washing, double shampooing, pre-pooing, co-washing, oil training, and too many more to name.
The latest technique gaining traction is called water-only hair washing—and you guessed it—it requires only H2O to allegedly get the job done. Before you start recycling your shampoo bottles, we tapped Redken artist Jamie McDaniel to break down this trending method and whether or not it’s effective and healthy for your mane. Here’s what you need to know before completely decluttering your shower shelves.
Shop Our Must-Have Sulfate-Free Shampoos and Deep Conditioners
What is water-only hair washing?
As its name suggests, water-only hair washing (also called no-poo or the no-poo method) is just that. Unlike other regimens where you switch the order of the shampoo and conditioner or apply a pre-shampoo treatment before sudsing up, water-only washing totally eliminates the need for shampoo (and any other in-shower products, for that matter).
“Water-only hair washing is simply the act of rinsing your hair with lukewarm water only with no cleansing agent,” says McDaniel.
All you need to do is wet your hair and scalp and use your fingertips to gently massage your scalp to help loosen up any debris or build-up and stimulate circulation. The thinking behind this method is that harsh shampoos can sometimes strip away the natural oils, good bacteria, and moisture on the scalp and hair, causing dryness, oiliness, or an overall pH level imbalance that can alter the look and feel of your locks.
“You will most likely see and feel a difference right away,” adds the Redken artist. “However, like most things in life, the more frequently you do it, the more change you’ll notice.”
If you stick with water-only washing long enough, it’s speculated that the natural oils from your scalp will eventually travel all the way down your hair shaft to restore moisture and softness to your strands and even help reduce frizz.
All sounds too good (and cost-effective!) to be true, right? We’re not 100 percent sold just yet. It’s worth noting that shampoos sometimes get a bad rap. Professionally-formulated shampoos use just the right amount of ingredients to help you reap the rewards of cleansing without wreaking havoc on your hair. Choosing the right shampoo formula for your specific hair type and concerns will also ensure your mane and scalp stay healthy and balanced. Not sure which shampoo is right for you? Your hairstylist or dermatologist can point you in the right direction.
Is water-only washing good for hair?
There are distinct pros and cons to water-only hair washing.
“The benefits of water-only hair washing allow your natural oils to protect, nourish and lubricate your scalp and hair rather than constantly being washed away from a traditional cleansing detergent or shampoo,” says McDaniel. “Cons can be if you go too long, oil and product build-up can form around the hair and prevent good nutrients from getting into the scalp or hair.”
As with many hair care trends, certain hair types may see better water-only hair washing results than others. According to McDaniel, water-only washing “works best on thick, coarse, curly/coily textures or those that tend to experience dry scalp or hair.”
Will my hair smell if I just wash with water?
There’s nothing like the fresh, lingering smell of shampoo in our hair after a thorough cleanse. While your locks may not smell “bad,” so to speak, when using the water-only technique, they likely won’t have that alluring fragrance you’ve come to expect after washing with products. Consider picking up a refreshing dry shampoo or a hair perfume if you want to enhance your hair’s scent.
How often should you wash your hair with water only?
Hair washing trends are all about trial and error, so it may take a few tries to get it right.
If you want to totally eradicate shampoo from your routine, there will likely be a transitional period where your hair is adjusting to the no-poo method, and you’ll notice that your scalp becomes greasy more quickly. Instead of going cold turkey, you can gradually reduce your shampoo usage to every other wash day or once every few washes to manage the look and feel of your hair.
Looking to simply reduce your shampoo usage instead of wiping it completely from your arsenal? Follow McDaniel’s rule of thumb.
“Depending on your scalp and hair needs, as well as product usage and activity level, washing with a traditional cleansing detergent or shampoo should take place biweekly for coarser textures and weekly for medium to fine textures,” says McDaniel.
As far as products go, she recommends “a sulfate-free shampoo that won’t dry out all of your hard work—and it never hurts to add in a deep conditioning mask to add extra moisture and combability.”
If you’re in the market for salon-approved recommendations, we rounded up a few of our must-haves to give you the best water-only hair washing results when shampoo days are fewer and farther between.
Our Must-Have Sulfate-Free Shampoos and Deep Conditioners
Pureology Hydrate Shampoo
Pureology Hydrate Shampoo is a sulfate-free shampoo that kicks off your hair care routine with intense moisture and contains the brand’s exclusive AntiFade Complex to protect color vibrancy.
Kérastase Bain Chroma Respect Sulfate-Free Shampoo
The lightweight Kérastase Bain Chroma Respect Sulfate-Free Shampoo features amino acids that reinforce weak hair and rebuild the fiber from the inside out as you wash it.
Kérastase Symbiose Bain Crème Antipelliculaire Antidandruff Sulfate-Free Shampoo
Prone to dandruff? You’ll need Kérastase Symbiose Bain Crème Antipelliculaire Antidandruff Sulfate-Free Shampoo on wash days. The gentle yet purifying sulfate-free shampoo is made with pyrithione zinc, a powerful active ingredient to help eliminate the symptoms of dandruff.
L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Metal Detox Shampoo
If hard water is dulling your salon color, look to L’Oréal Professionnel’s Serie Expert Metal Detox Shampoo to detoxify the hair from metals and preserve color vibrancy.
Redken All Soft Mega Curls Shampoo
Textured hair types require extra delicacy during the shampoo process. Redken All Soft Mega Curls Shampoo to the rescue! Free of silicones and sulfates, this hydrating and moisturizing treatment shampoo gently cleanses and nourishes extremely dry, curly and coily hair.
Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Sulfate-Free Shampoo
Made with all hair types and textures in mind, Redken’s Acidic Bonding Concentrate Sulfate-Free Shampoo For Damaged Hair helps to intensely condition, repair strength, and recreate weakened bonds on damaged hair.
Mizani True Textures Moroccan Clay Steam Mask
Ideal for curls types 2C to 4C, it’s hard not to get hooked on Mizani True Textures Moroccan Clay Steam Mask. It’s packed with nourishing ingredients like Moroccan clay, olive oil, coconut oil, and marula oil to add moisture, definition, and smoothness to waves, curls, and coils.
Shu Uemura Art of Hair Izumi Tonic Strengthening Treatment
Strengthen your hair with a little help from Shu Uemura Art of Hair Izumi Tonic Strengthening Treatment, a deep conditioning balm made with rice water.
Biolage Professional Ultra Hydra Source Deep Treatment Pack
Biolage Professional Ultra Hydra Source Deep Treatment Pack is for the driest of dry hair thanks to its star ingredient cupuaçu butter, which helps hair retain 72 hours of moisture.
L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Liss Unlimited Mask
Frizz is always an unwelcome guest. L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Liss Unlimited Mask boasts oil extracts, such as primrose oil, to help prevent frizz from spoiling your good hair day, starting in the shower.
More professional hair products and expert advice await you on Hair.com. Don’t forget to tune into our HDCTV livestreams to watch industry pros use their hair favorites in real-time.